Anvers. One among the four most visited Belgium cities. The diamond in Belgium’s crown. Not only literally speaking, in fact, because this city is the center of diamond cut. But it is world-known mainly because of the fact that Anvers is the home town of Pieter Paul Rubens, the star of Baroque painting at the turn of the 16 and 17 centuries.
Rubens was not born in Anvers but he studied art there, he lived in the city for his whole live and he finally died in his house and was buried in the local church. Anvers is associated with Rubens and Rubens is associated with Anvers. If you want to feel this profound connection, you should visit at least several places related to this genius and recognized already during his lifetime by contemporaries painter.
Start with the Rubens house on 9-11, Wapper street, several meters from the fashionable Meir street. The paintings of Rubens were in a high demand, so he was never poor like many other painters. He could permitted himself a large house with a nice garden, where he worked on his chef-de-oeuvres, received guests and carried out a normal life of a prosperous citizen. He was also himself a collector of art pieces, in his house you will find mainly not his works but the antique sculptures bought by him in Italy and the works of his contemporaries, many names are not widely known.
Then go to the Rockox House. Nicolaax Rockox was a mayor (burgomaster) of Anvers and a great friend of Rubens. His house posesses several paintings of the artist but also an interesting collection of art, including Proverbs of Pieter II Brueghel (the eldest son of Pieter Brueghel). The house is more modest than the Rubens’ one but still with a small green area inside. The visit helps to understand more the social and historical conditions in which Rubens lived and worked.
Now the time of the most magnifest among the Rubens masterpieces has come. In the Cathedral of Our Lady you will find to works of the painter that attract tourists from the four corners of the planet – The Raising of the Cross and The Descent from the Cross. Both are triptychs, illustrating the key scenes of the Jesus life and death with a clear Italian influence. Just to admire. (in general, the Cathedral is the unique one, count at least an hour to spend inside and do not forget also to look at the Assumption of the Virgin Mary at the high altar part, also painted by Rubens).
The final point of the visit is St James Church. The church itself is impressive. As you enter, you see lots of paintings, sculptures, decorative elements, everywhere you give a glance there is something to see. A real orgy of Baroque! Behind the altar there is a family grave of Rubens where Pieter Paul is also buried. The painting above the tomb is by the master himself.
Unfortunately, the Royal Museum of Fine Arts with the large collection of Flemish art is closed on rennovation till 2014, so this excursion rests uncompleted…until your return to Anvers!
Practical information.
1. Anvers – about 50 km from Brussels, 60 km from Gent, 350 km from Paris. The regular train communication between all these cities is assured. The Internet site of Belgium railways: www.b-rail.be The airport also exists in 2 km from Anvers but it only serves the flights to/from UK.
2. Rubens house (Rubenshuis) – 9-11, Wapper Street. Open every day except Monday from 10 am to 5 pm. The full price is 6 euro but only 1 euro for youth. The Internet site (English, French, German, NL): http://www.rubenshuis.be/eCache/MCF/30/05/053.html
3. Rockox house (Rockoxhuis) – 10-12, Keizerstraat. Open every day except Monday from 10 am to 5 pm. The full price is 2,50 euro but only 1,25 euro for youth. The Internet site (English, French, NL):
http://www.rockoxhuis.be/en
4. The Cathedral of Our Lady (Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekathedraal) – 21, Groenplaats. Open every day: Monday to Friday from 10 am to 5 pm, Saturday from 10 am to 3 pm, Sunday from 1 pm to 4 pm. The full price is 5 euro and 3 euro for students. The Internet site (English, French, German, NL): http://www.dekathedraal.be/en/
5. St. James Church (Sint-Jacobskerk) – 73, Lange Nieuwstraat. Open every day from 2 pm till 5 pm. The full price is 2 euro. The Internet site (English, French, NL): http://www.jacobus-antverpiae.be/nederlands/index.htm
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